Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Gardens
Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered train pulls into a spray-painted station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant road noise. Commuters rush by collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds form.
It is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But one local grower has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with round purplish grapes on a sprawling allotment situated between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just above the city downtown.
"I've noticed people concealing heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," states the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He's pulled together a loose collective of growers who produce vintage from four discreet urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and allotments across Bristol. The project is too clandestine to possess an official name yet, but the collective's messaging chat is named Grape Expectations.
Urban Vineyards Across the World
So far, the grower's allotment is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming world atlas, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the hillsides of the French capital's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and more than three thousand vines with views of and within Turin. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has discovered them throughout the world, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens help cities remain more eco-friendly and more diverse. They preserve land from development by establishing long-term, productive agricultural units within urban environments," says the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a product of the soils the vines grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine embodies the charm, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a urban center," adds the president.
Unknown Polish Grapes
Returning to the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his garden by a Polish family. If the rain comes, then the birds may take advantage to attack again. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he says, as he removes bruised and rotten berries from the glistering bunches. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you don't have to spray them with chemicals ... this could be a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Activities Across the City
The other members of the collective are also making the most of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of the city's glistening harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of vintage from France and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her dark berries from about fifty plants. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, stopping with a container of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the car windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her family in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already endured three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of passing this on to someone else so they keep cultivating from this land."
Terraced Gardens and Natural Production
A short walk away, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated over one hundred fifty vines situated on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, Scofield, sixty, is picking clusters of dusty purple dark berries from lines of plants slung across the hillside with the help of her child, Luca. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce intriguing, enjoyable natural wine, which can sell for more than seven pounds a serving in the growing number of establishments focusing on minimal-intervention wines. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly make quality, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of producing wine."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, the various wild yeasts come off the skins into the juice," says Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, pips and crimson juice. "That's how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and then incorporate a commercially produced yeast."
Difficult Conditions and Creative Solutions
A few doors down active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to establish her grapevines, has gathered his companions to harvest Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to France. But it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," admits the retiree with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole challenge encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has had to install a fence on